Home Herb Garden Advice

If you are looking information on Herb container Gardening, I would assume by now you have already decided on growing herbs in your home. You must be debating where to grow herbs in pots, containers or in your backyard. What place to use backyard, balcony, patio or use hanging herb baskets to grow herbs? All these questions are valid and useful to think in advance before drafting plan for herb container gardening.

The first point is to set your garden size, regardless if you are growing indoor or outdoor. In case you are using indoor space such as close to kitchen or in your balcony etc. Note down dimensions of your area to be used for growing herbs. Divide marked area into manageable containers size. The popular containers used in indoor herb garden are 5-10 inches deep containers or 6″ cup for individual herb plant. In case you want to differentiate between herbs grow them in cluster in separate containers such as mint in one container and parsley in another container. You can also label your individual plant cups for easy identification.

The 10 or 12″ can accommodate up to 4 herbs. You can grow 4 herbs of same type or variety in one container. Depending upon the size of the area you are using for herb garden you can add more containers. Ensure proper drainage is there in containers and are placed close to sunshine area. They need few hours of sunshine to survive.

The real result of growing herbs will depend upon how well you design herb garden, what size of containers you use, how well you use potting soil and how well plants are given water and sunshine. Also not all herb plants can be grown in container, some plants are grow tall such as “Dill”, you don’t want small trees in your kitchen. All these factors are important in growing herbs in container. One of the reasons why herbs containers are placed close to kitchen is that you will see them when you are cooking. This will ensure their use in your daily cooking.

The best practice is to first seed the herbs in individual plant cups, usually 6″ inch long. Wait for few days to week to let baby plant come out. Keep container ready with soil and make right depth for plant transplant from plant cup to container. Peel outer layer of plant cup without disturbing plant root and place it in herb container. Place soil around the plant in container. Ensure right amount of water is given to planted herb. Too much or little water can destroy the plant. Once all plant precautions are taken results will be in front of you in form of healthy herb plants.

Author: Sanjay Kak
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Coriandrum sativum (Umbelliferae)

Appearance:

The entire plant makes a decorative addition to the herb border– it may also be cultivated in pots quite successfully – and will reach a height of 45 cms (1.5 ft). The lower leaves are fan-like (similar to flat-leafed parsley), upper leaves are filigreed and the tiny flowers in high summer are a pinkish mauve.

Description:

Coriander has developed into 2 distinct categories – the seeds and the leaves. Despite the seeds being cultivated and used for over 3000 years, the leaves were virtually unknown in the West as a culinary entity up until the mid 20th century; coriander leaves are now reputed to be in the top 5 most popular herbs worldwide. Once seldom listed in herb garden information brochures, fresh coriander has come into it’s own at last.

Known variously as silantro, coriander and dhania – depending on your country of residence – the leaves of coriander have taken the world by storm. Before the seed ripens the entire plant can be distinctly odorous, but on maturity the rich aroma develops.

Usage:

For the best flavour, seed should be freshly ground shortly before use. In Indian cooking the seed is roasted before being ground for use and the leaves are used either in a curry or as a garnish – or even both. Seeds are often added to a potpourri mix.

History:

The rounded beige seeds of coriander are best known as a flavouring for pickles and curries in both Europe and America. But in India and the Far East green coriander seed – or the fresh foliage – accounts for one of the distinctive curry flavours. This foliage version is happily becoming a must-have item in western supermarkets.

A native of southern Europe and the Middle East, coriander used to be a popular herb in England up to Tudor times. The early settlers in America included coriander seed among the beloved items they took to the New World, as did the Spaniards in Mexico. Today, coriander enjoys a wide popularity. However, among certain groups it still has mythical associations – the Chinese believe it to be endowed with the power of immortality and Jews include it in the bitter herbs prepared for the Feast of Passover.

Cultivation:

Coriander grows best in a dry atmosphere – in fact it is difficult to grow in damp or humid areas, and needs a good dry summer at the very least if a reasonable crop is to be obtained. Choose a sunny place and sow seed in situ once all danger of frost has passed. Alternatively, sow into decorative containers and continue to cultivate as a container plant on an apartment balcony, sunny patio or yard. The stems are weak – either add a stake or give it a companion to lean against. Coriander makes a good Winter crop, depending on local climate. Where I live, a dry warm Winter gives good results and we indulge in many hot curries with coriander garnishing.

Harvesting:

Sprigs can be frozen or preserved in salt and oil; fresh leaf coriander does not dry successfully. The best flavour is obtained by using leaves soon after picking.

Author: Pete Steel
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In order for your herb plants to survive harsh winter conditions you want to be sure to winterize your herb garden. This will enable your plants to come back strong in the spring to continue to provide you with a great bountiful harvest.

Winterizing your home herb garden is not rocket science. Mother Nature has her own magical way of preparing for winter and you will see, as fall approaches, a slowdown in the growth of your plants. Your herb plants will begin to lose their leaves. Don’t be alarmed if your perennial herb plants look as if they are dead. They are not dead. They are merely dormant – hibernating, so to speak, to survive the winter.

There are a several reasons you want to pay attention to the condition of your soil as winter approaches. Many herbs like their feet dry anyway because they are from the Mediterranean. Thyme, rosemary and lavender actually prefer dry soil. But you should be aware that wet soil will wick the heat away from your herb plants. Also, water freezes and can crack the roots of your plants.

“Old Man Winter” can be quite hard on your plants. Be sure to take a few extra steps to care for them for their winter protection and survival. Herbs are especially prone to root rot over the winter if they are sitting in wet soil.

Definitely do not fertilize or prune your plants at this time. You don’t want tender new growth getting nipped by the cold. You can, however, go ahead trim out dead or damaged stems and foliage.

The best protection you can give your herb plants is mulch. If winter temperatures in your area generally fall below -10 degrees Fahrenheit you will want to lay down lightweight organic mulch around your plants. Shredded leaves, pine needles or straw will do the trick. Some people even use sawdust. However, if you want your herb garden to continue to have a more manicured look, you will most likely opt for a commercial mulch mix. Stay away from whole leaves or heavier mulches as these can suffocate your plants.

I know you want to make sure your herbs see it through to another summer, so what you do throughout their growing season is vital. If you haven’t paid much attention to “lightening up” your soil throughout the summer months, please make it a priority when fall comes calling. It’s the best way to help ensure herbal survival through the winter months.

Your small annual herbs are perfect for digging up and putting them in pots to spend the winter indoors. Find a sunny windowsill or plug in the fluorescent light. This way you can continue to have fresh herbs.

Even though we all know the most fun in herb gardening is planting your seeds, watching them sprout and grow strong to provide you with wonderful herbs for cooking or other purposes, you do want to pay close attention to winterizing your herb garden. Taking the few steps to winterize your herb garden will enable your plants to come back strong next season.

Author: Linda S. Stevens
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As any chef or cook can tell you, having your own herb garden is the best way to ensure a constant supply of fresh herbs for your favourite recipes. Growing your own herbs is not only easy, but it is also an asset in your kitchen. When you need a sprig of parsley or a few basil leaves, for example, you pick just what you need rather than having to buy a whole bunch with most of it ending up in the trash.

The list of herbs is vast and unless you have lots of land and plenty of gardening helpers, you are best choosing a selection of herbs you would use the most. These could be anything, but the most popular herbs are, parsley (curly and continental), sweet basil, thyme, rosemary, oregano, dill, coriander and sweet marjoram. Choosing a selection of herbs to grow is entirely dependant upon your needs.

This article will show you:

How to grow a selection of six herbs,

Explain a little about each one

Show you how to use minimal space and effort to grow them

First of all let us begin by getting our tools and resources together. You will need:

2 window/planter boxes each measuring between 2 to 3ft., (if you are using a garden bed, that is fine. Just follow the same spacing details).

2 bags of premium quality potting mix.

1 packet or bottle of liquid fertilizer

A selection of 6 to 8 of your favorite herbs.

Select six to eight pots of of your favorite herbs from your local nursery. Make sure they are healthy and not just out of a greenhouse. The way to tell this is by the strength and uprightness of the stem. If it has been outdoors and acclimatised sufficiently, the plant will have calcified enough and benefitted from direct sunlight. Greenhouse grown plants tend to be soft and weak, even if they do look picture perfect. The sudden shock of life outdoors can cause shock.

Remember to check the eventual growing height and size of the herbs you select, as some herbs can outgrow others. Rosemary for example is more of a shrub sized plant and can outgrow and smother other herbs. Rosemary is best planted alone in its own pot or in the garden. Herbs like, basil, dill, coriander, parsley, chives, oregano and sweet marjoram, complement each other nicely. They can be planted side by side.

Water all herbs in their original pots 30 minutes prior to transplanting. In the meantime, take a planter box and fill 2 thirds of this with potting mix. Choose a herb and remove it from its pot taking care not to damage the roots. Plant a selection of 3 to 4 herbs in one planter and then repeat by planting the other 3 to 4 in the second planter.

Water these well and set aside in a sheltered area, protected from the afternoon sun for about 1 week, long enough for plants to recover from transplant shock. These only need to be watered once during this time. After one week they can be moved into full sun where watering 2 to 3 times per week is required, along with a dose of fertilizer fortnightly.

There you have it. Your own herb garden! Happy Gardening!

Author: James Koutlis
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Sage is most widely known as a herb plant, possessing many culinary and medicinal properties. In fact, these applies mainly to the Garden or Common sage, Salvia officinalis, whereas most species, while perhaps having fragrant leaves, are grown purely as garden ornamentals. As far as Mediterranean and other dry climates are concerned, many sages are tolerant of both drought and alkaline soils.

Different types of Sage perform a number of design roles, but features common to all the ornamental species and varieties include attractive foliage, showy flowers, and relatively low maintenance needs. Design wise, Sages can be divided into four main groups; long lasting perennials, short-lived perennials, small shrubs or semi woody sub-shrubs, and tropical species that act as annuals in Mediterranean and temperate climates.

Perennials

The great benefit of the long lasting perennial sages is that they form a stable element in a flowerbed or herbaceous border. It is virtually impossible to expect a flowerbed to look at its best all year, because annuals and short-lived perennials have to be replaced, clumps of bulbous plants dug up and divided, and many perennials cut down to the ground

Many Sages on the other hand, look presentable and “hold” the border even when out of bloom. Examples include Salvia Africana-lutea, S. leucantha, and S. “Indigo Spires” with their very prominent purple-blue flowers,

In natural style gardens in dry climates, the short-lived perennial, Clary Sage (Salvia sclarea) comes into its own. It self-sows to form a carpet of grey-green, woolly leaves, interspersed with lavender blue flowers in the spring. Cutting the leaf stalks before the seeds have ripened, will of course reduce the capacity of the plant to spread.

Sub-Shrubs and Low Bushes

Low growing foliage bushes are useful and often important elements in garden design. Groupings that include plants like Pittosporum “Wheelers Dwarf”, Coprosma, Green Island Ficus, and Raphiolepis indica, can become more interesting and lively when a shrubby sage is added. A fine example is Salvia microphylla, which as its name implies, has small leaves and a delicate texture. It flowers profusely with lovely red blooms. The plant seems to last for years, requiring a good prune every couple of years or so.

Sages used as Annuals

The Tropical Sage, S. coccinea, is a perennial from Mexico, but is usually grown as an annual in Mediterranean climates. It has interesting heart-shaped leaves and bright red flowers, which re-bloom after dead heading throughout the warm months of the year. There are numerous varieties available in nurseries of this species and indeed of many of the species previously mentioned.

With water shortages increasing in severity throughout the dry regions of the world, gardeners can be thankful for the varied design uses of many sages. Considering that many, although not all, can beautify the garden on a fraction of the water needed for most summer annuals and many perennials, Sage plants are definitely a vital tool for the gardener in a dry climate.

Author: Jonathan Ya’akobi
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If you want to create a herb garden, you need to have a basic knowledge about plants. Herbs can be classified as perennials, biennials or annuals and should be treated accordingly. Knowing a bit more about each of the herb garden plants you want to use will help you decide how and where you will plant them.

Annuals are the classification given to many of the most well loved herbs. As annual plants, these herbs live an entire life cycle in only one growing season. Many of these herbs have beautiful color and long lasting blooms. Chamomile, Chervil, Garlic, Basil and Dill are all considered to be annual herbs.

Perennial plants are those that die back during the cooler months and are dormant during the winter. Still they will return each growing season, bigger and better than they were the year before. This allows you to enjoy the herbs and add their fresh taste to your home cooked dishes without having to replant them each year. Rosemary, thyme, lavender, mint and many of the oregano herbs are all members of the perennial plant family.

Biennial herbs have a life cycle that extends over a 2 year period. When the seeds sprout during the 1st year the plants will grow roots, strong stems and leaves before retreating into dormancy for the first winter. It is only in the 2nd year that the flowers come into bloom and new seeds appear. Angelica and caraway are two of the herbs that are classified as biennials.

You can easily grow herb garden plants outdoors or inside your home. These types of plants need a light soil that is easily drained. Most herbs have minimal water requirements once they have become established. A little pruning is all the extra assistance they need to keep them healthy, happy and thriving.

Herb garden plants are a favorite of cooks and chefs in many countries. Anyone who enjoys robust flavors and spices will appreciate the culinary magic of fresh herbs. Italian and Asian cooks frequently use herbal ingredients in most of their dishes

You can even use herb garden plants for the essential oils and other healing compounds they contain. These are used for the healthy, medicinal effects they have on the body. If used properly many herbs are natural remedies for a variety of different ailments including digestive upsets, small burns, headaches, infections and fevers. Even though these plants are used in many commercial pharmaceutical preparations it is still best to ask your doctor for his opinion before you try them.

Certain oils and fragrances can also be extracted from herb garden plants. Many cosmetics, perfumes, potpourri items, and bath products are made from herbal ingredients. The fresh, light scents of lavender, roses and mints are relaxing and rejuvenating. You can even use some clippings from rosemary, mint or eucalyptus plants to add texture, focal appeal and beauty to a room in your home.

There are a number of herbs in pots that are used to decorate and enhance rooms in a house. Ornamental herbs have been used by people for many centuries because of the beauty and fragrance these plants possess. Bee balm, mint, thyme, lavender and borage are just a few of the herbs that can be used in this manner.

Growing some herb garden plants can be beneficial in many ways once you understand the herbs and know how to use them properly. These plants are low maintenance; able to withstand drought and heat; and can be grown almost anywhere. In return for your time and effort you can have fresh herbal ingredients for your food, naturally beautiful textures to enjoy, and delightful fragrant scents in both your garden and home.

Author: Brenda Valdano
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Freezing parsley is a very convenient and efficient way of preserving the herb.

It’s almost instant – much more in tune with our ‘do it now’ culture of modern times than old fashioned methods of drying.

It’s also more reliable – drying parsley can be a hit and miss affair – it can go ‘musty’ and that makes it useless.

You can freeze parsley any time you have an excess – it doesn’t have to be for out of season use – you can add frozen parsley to your cooking to save the mess of chopping on a daily basis.

Frozen parsley is as good as fresh if you do it right.

So – do you want a month’s supply or a winter supply?

Work out how many times you will want to use it – if it’s a month, then you need to think about what recipes you’ll use it for -a parsley sauce, an ingredient in a dish or a garnish?

If it’s for winter, you’ll need to be a little more thoughtful and probably a bit more generous in the amount you freeze down.

If you have a glut of parsley growing in your garden and you want to do ‘one cut’ and save time over the next few weeks, then go this way:-

Gather your parsley from the plants and chop ‘handfuls’ – put into small poly bags and squeeze as much air out of them as you can.

Put these bags into a larger bag or a plastic container (labelled ‘parsley’ as herbs look the same when they’re frozen) and put in your freezer.

These herbs are for use within 4 to 6 weeks – it’s just a way of ‘doing a job once’ and getting the benefit for many times – one lot of chopping and clearing bits of parsley from the kitchen.

If you want to freeze parsley for winter use then you need to approach it in a slightly different way.

The best way is to freeze it in ice cube trays and when they’re solid, pack in a poly box or bag.

You will need:-

- paper towel

- ice cube trays

- freezer labels

- freezer marking pen

- strong freezer bags/poly boxes

- chopping knife

- chopping board

Pick your parsley early in the morning, then wash it and place it to dry on paper towels.

Once it’s dried off, chop it finely and pack it into ice cube trays – add a spot of water to cover and put the trays into the freezer.

When it’s frozen solid, turn the cubes out and put them into a labelled poly bag or box – labelling is important here – all your herbs will look the same once they’re frozen.

Use strong bags and maybe double them up – put the cubes in one bag, then put that bag inside another.

You’ll be keeping these herbs for about 6 months before the growing season starts again, so you want to protect against freezer burn.

If the bag tears, then replace it.

A bag is better than a box in many ways – firstly, it takes up less space and secondly, as you use the parsley, you can squeeze it down to get the air out of it, so lessening the chance of ‘freezer burn’.

The next question is – how much to freeze?

Work out how many times a week you would like to use parsley in cooking.

A sauce once a week – an addition to cooking?

How do you normally use it?

Say it’s 6 months before your herbs are growing strongly enough in the garden to be able to take a cutting of parsley for instance.

That’s 26 weeks – how many times will you use a tablespoon (that’s about 2 ice cubes) of parsley in a recipe?

Twice a week equals 112 cubes – so you need 9 or 10 ice trays to make enough to last you.

It might take you a few days to freeze down this much but it will be well worth it – by freezing parsley, you will get a much fresher tasting result than drying.

Author: Liz Alderson
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One of my favorite summertime delights is heading to the garden, salt shaker in hand, to enjoy a couple of fresh, home grown tomatoes. Nothing can compare to the fresh taste of homegrown vegetables! You can enjoy home grown veggies, too, even if you live in a small apartment, or have little, or no yard space for a garden. How, you ask? You can grow herbs and vegetables in your kitchen! There some terrific aeroponic gardening systems that make it possible to grow veggies inside without soil! The next question most people ask is, ‘what’s aeroponic gardening?’

Aeroponic gardening has been tested by NASA for quite a few years now. It is a system of gardening that uses air, nutrients and water, along with artificial lighting to grow flowers, herbs and vegetables. You may have seen some small counter top versions for growing herbs advertised on television. There are small aeroponic kits for those who just want to grow a few herbs, and there are some larger towers that can produce things like herbs, green onions, radishes, and even those delicious tomatoes! The taller towers will take up about as much space as a floor lamp, so even they will fit in most kitchens.

Growing your own veggies has another advantage, besides tasting great. They will be healthier than the commercially produced vegetables you but at the grocery produce section. Commercial produce is often grown with dangerous chemicals and pesticides. When you use one of the aeroponic gardening systems, you can control what you use, giving your family much healthier vegetables. There will be no danger of another salmonella outbreak from your own home grown veggies, either!

It is easy, and fun to grow herbs and vegetables in your kitchen. Aeroponic gardening systems will eliminate the mess of using dirt and soil, and you can even produce fresh herbs and veggies the year around. Set up your own kitchen garden, and let the fun begin!

Author: Steve Kettle
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Growing herbs in pots or a container is a great choice if you have limited garden space or wish to keep your herbs indoors. Having the ability to move your herbs around either outside or from inside to outside as the weather changes is a major benefit. My mother has a small yard but a large driveway and she’s planted many plants and herbs in large containers and placed them on her driveway. Turning a large heat absorbing blacktop into a beautiful garden that is at just the right height for her to work on without stressing her arthritic knees.

When you start growing herbs in pots there are five critical differences you need to make sure you attend to versus when growing herbs in an outdoor garden in the ground. These difference will help to make sure that your herbs grow as vibrant and healthy as possible.

1. Size

When choosing a pot or a container to grow your herb its important to not over fill the pot with to much of the plant. There needs to be adequate room for each individual plant to develop a proper root system and receive proper sunlight. Look at the herbs spacing requirements, the seed packaging typically gives you the distance you need when you first plant the seeds (on average about 1 – 2 inches) and then the space required once the herb has emerged to a specific height (on average 1 – 2 inches in height). For example if you plant an herb with a suggested spacing of 6 inches you want to make sure you have a pot that will accommodate about half that distance. Herbs grown in containers typically do not grow as large as those planted in the ground.

2. Drainage

As with any type of gardening the soil you plant in is of the utmost importance. All herbs like well drained soil and don’t do well in heavily compacted soil. When growing in a pot remember to put gravel at the bottom at about a depth of 1 inch. Mix the soil so its two parts potting soil and one part coarse sand. For large containers fill the very bottom with empty soda cans then place a layer of weed barrier cloth which will help the soil from falling through and washing out. Then put your layer of gravel and finally topping it with your soil mix. The cans take up un-used space and save you on the expensive soil that would just sit way at the bottom and never get used.

3. Sweeten the Soil

Herbs enjoy a nice sweet soil so add one teaspoon of lime juice for every 5 inches of depth. This will sweeten the soil and help your herbs grow to healthy and vibrant. This is a trick that is hard to do with an outdoor garden as the lime juice would be overly diluted to make it of any worth.

4. Watering and Humidity

Obviously plants in containers have different watering requirements as they can only rely on the water that enters their container. To promote the proper amount of humidity that an herb plant requires make sure to keep the gravel at the bottom of the pot or container moist. One option is to put the pot on a plate with a little bit of standing water. Make sure to not put to much as you don’t want the bottom soil to be soaking and you want to make sure the water you put in from above can properly drain. Misting the leaves of the herbs will also help.

5. Movement

It is very important to move the herbs growing in pots around from time to time. You might need to simply spin the pot 180 degrees so that the other side gets proper sunlight. If you notice the plants leaning over towards the window turn them so they lean back the other way and straighten out. Also remember that perennials planted in pots or containers need to spend a bit of time outdoors during the summer months and don’t forget some perennials could use a quick frost outside to kick start some late season growth.

Following these critical differences when growing herbs in pots will help you to make a vibrant and healthy herb garden. Remember to research what is required for each individual herb that you choose to grow in a pot and enjoy your herb garden whether indoors or out.

Author: Liz Sullivan
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Herbs can be cultivated indoors and outdoors. Either way, they can still thrive and flourish. They can grow in containers, pots, window boxes, and even in hanging baskets. Whether planted indoor or outdoor, herbs still have the same necessities in order for them to grow.

Like any other plants, herbs need soil, sunlight and water to live. Herbs cannot live without sunlight because heat and light are vital for their growth. If you plan to grow your herbs indoors, place them on the window facing south where sunlight is the longest and brightest all throughout the year. Herbs do have different sunlight requirements, but most of them prefer full sunlight. In case of indoor herbs, if the plants do not receive as much light as they need, fluorescent lamps can be provided to compensate. Herbs love well-drained soil, but dislike heavy and wet soil. When growing herbs in pots, combine two parts of sterilized potting soil with one part coarse sand or perlite. If you worry about the soil escaping the container, gravel can be added at the bottom part of the container. This will aid in better drainage also. Add one teaspoon of lime for every 5-inch pot to make the soil pleasant for indoor herbs. For the water requirements of herbs, keep them humidified by misting the plants and sprinkling water on the pebbles. Potted herbs need more water than those grown outdoors. Still, do not let the water collect at the roots or the plants will drown.

Good thing about growing herbs in pots is that, they are very mobile. You can keep annual herbs indoors throughout the year, but take the perennial herbs outside during summer time. Before winter hits, take all the herbs indoors to keep them from losing their foliage. Growing herbs in pots makes it easy to carry the plants around, either outdoor or indoor, depending on the season. There is an exception to this rule though. In case of chives, mint and tarragon, you can keep them a in a little while outside during winter. A light frost will make them grow stronger.

Basically, all herbs can be potted, although there are varieties that really prefer to be potted. Mint, for instance, will just spread uncontrollably if not grown in pots. It’s also easy to care for herbs grown indoors. Just follow the guidelines aforementioned, compensate for the needed light, and repot them every year to ensure maximum health. Annual herbs should be replanted, and keep the perennial herbs out on summer. You can pluck out a small amount that you need from time to time, or you can occasionally harvest. Pruning will also benefit your plants, encourage new growth and make them healthier. Growing herbs in pots allow you to reach out and just grab some whenever you need some food enhancers for your everyday recipe. They will also make good gifts to family and friends.

Author: Mike Jacovelli
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